Nestled in southern Bolivia, Tupiza is often dubbed the “Wild West of Bolivia.” Its rugged beauty, reminiscent of iconic Western movies, includes striking red rock formations and deep canyons. With a history intertwined with mining and banditry, Tupiza offers a unique blend of natural charm and historical allure, making it a worthwhile stop on the way to or from Uyuni.
I left for Tupiza by bus from the border town of Villazon immediately after crossing into Bolivia from Argentina. The bus journey itself had its share of semi-eventful moments. First and foremost, it was an hour late departing. I was told things work a bit slower in Bolivia and this hour delay seemed to have proved that statement correct. Once we finally set off, it was not long until we encountered a holdup at a checkpoint. I was completely in the dark about the situation, but some local women seemed to be involved. The checkpoint police called 3 women off and were in discussions with them about what I could not say. The discussions finally concluded and to my surprise, we turned back and headed in the direction we came. In the middle of nowhere, we pulled over to the side of the road. I couldn’t see what was happening, because the open luggage compartments were blocking my view to the outside. Roughly 15 minutes later, the compartments closed, revealing various boxes and items strewn alongside the highway. The contents were just left there unattended as the bus turned around and continued our journey to Tupiza. My best guess is that the items were of questionable legality. I could see cartons of eggs, so perhaps small vendor items, potentially acquired in Argentina and not properly declared through customs.
Having abandoned the contraband, we set off again. For some reason we still underwent numerous checkpoint inspections and inquiries throughout the journey. Fortunately, none of the delays were as significant as the initial one.
Having just arrived in Bolivia, I had no internet. This made finding accommodation somewhat more manual. I initially scouted out a few places on Google Maps and Booking.com beforehand and then headed out toward them once I was in town to check them out. There were a shortage of backpackers hostels in Tupiza and I could find only one on booking.com. I made that my first stop as it was likely going to be the cheapest option. However, when I got there, it turned out it wasn’t even really a hostel at all. It had no dormitory rooms, only double rooms with en-suites. Expecting a hefty rate, I was pleasantly surprised when I found out the room was priced the same dorm beds in Argentina. I liked Bolivia already, I thought to myself, and agreed to take the room without hesitation.
Apart from seeing the town itself, which showcased picturesque surrounding landscapes, I had largely come to Tupiza to enrol on an epic four-day jeep tour of the high-altitude desert, which would eventually lead to the infamous Uyuni salt flats. True to my usual style, I hadn’t made any pre-arrange bookings yet. So, the following day, I set out early to enquire about the tour options with the aim to still have ample time for hiking and exploring the canyons around Tupiza afterwards.
I visited several tour companies and noted they all offered similar packages at the same price point. Thus, the deciding factor became the size and composition of the group. I settled on a company that already had a gentleman from the USA and an English-speaking French girl. There was room for one more person, and I hoped it wouldn’t be another French traveller. Nothing against French people at all, but as travellers they often tend to group together and converse entirely in their native tongue, which can disrupt the group dynamics.
After sorting out the tour arrangements, I set off to hike to the Canyon de Inca (AKA Inca Canyon). The walk was pleasant in the mildly warm weather. At some point, I even took my shirt off to absorb my previously neglected Vitamin D exposure. Some passersby found it amusing that I had my shirt off while still wearing a woollen winter hat.
Upon reaching the canyon, I wasn’t disappointed. The entrance featured strikingly red rock formations leading into the canyon. An atmospheric and scenic walk that meanders through the mars like terrain.
After a pleasant dose of nature, I headed back to Tupiza. I still had to secure my booking for the tour to Uyini by paying. On my way to pay the tour company, I ran into Finn, the German guy I had met in Ticara, Argentina. He joined me for my errands, and we arranged to meetup for dinner later that evening.
Later that evening, Finn arrived with a young French companion he had met at his hostel, named Romain. As fate would have it, he too was on the same tour as me. It evoked mixed feelings – he was a great guy, but I anticipated a lot of French conversation now that two French speakers were part of the tour.
