El Chalten is a quaint town nestled at the base of the iconic Fitzroy mountain, which happens to be the logo of the Patagonia outdoor gear brand.
Although we anticipated unfavourable weather conditions, we remained hopeful, just as we did in El Calafate. As we drove into El Chalten, the mountains were shrouded in clouds, making them invisible. However, our spirits were undeterred. Arielle’s infectious fascination with the mountain had rubbed off on me, and I was equally thrilled to be there.
Since we arrived mid-day, there wasn’t enough time for a full-day hike. Instead, I chose to visit a viewpoint and a waterfall. The viewpoint offered a breathtaking panorama of the expansive Patagonian landscape, surrounded by distant mountains. On the other side, we could see the town nestled at the foot of Fitzroy, although the mountain itself remained hidden behind the clouds. We had to rely on the locals’ words to confirm their existence.
After the viewpoint, I ventured towards the waterfall, situated closer to the mountains and away from the arid surroundings. The transition from arid terrain to lush forests was remarkable, occurring just beyond the first hill of the mountains. As I entered the mountainous area, I was greeted by a vibrant display of autumn colours, with bright yellow and bronze leaves adorning the landscape. Unfortunately, my enjoyment was cut short by rain, forcing me to head back. Back at the hostel, I met a friendly German traveler named Lucas, and we decided to embark on a glacier hike the next day, leaving the Fitzroy hike for clearer conditions, although the forecast predicted another cloudy day.
On the second day, as expected, we could occasionally catch glimpses of lower 2000m peaks through breaks in the clouds, but the towering peaks remained entirely veiled. The snowfall from the clouds dusted the surrounding hills, creating a fairy-tale scene. Fortunately, the hike to the glacier took us solely through the lower valley, sparing us from the challenges of an icy and slippery trail. However, the freezing temperatures remained.
After a trek of 2 or 3 hours, we arrived at the glacier, beholding its majestic descent from the mountain and its flow into a small, brown-coloured lake. Although the group mostly consisted entirely of Spanish and French speaking people, I still felt the social connection, despite not speaking the same language. After spending several hours around the glacier, we made our way back, eagerly anticipating a warm shower.
On the third day, relentless rain confined us to the hostel, which unfortunately lacked inviting communal spaces. On top of that, most of the conversations were conducted in French or Spanish, making it difficult for Lucas and I to participate. As for Arielle, I’m not sure what happened to her. We were in different rooms, and I never crossed paths with her in the kitchen or common areas. Perhaps she was fatigued from her travels, opting to stay in her room all day. It’s also entirely possible she was trying to avoid my incessant conversations.
Later that day, there was a break in the clouds, and for the first time, we witnessed the beauty of the surrounding mountains. Excitement filled the air as we noticed the possibility of clear weather for the next day, offering a chance to hike Fitzroy. As soon as I spotted the break in the clouds, I hurried back to the viewpoint to catch a glimpse of the sunset over Fitzroy. Despite enduring freezing temperatures, I was overjoyed to witness even a partial view of such a stunning natural creation. I braved the cold for nearly an hour to capture a time-lapse video of the sun setting behind Fitzroy, with clouds rolling over it.
Back at the hostel the enthusiasm was high, and this was the weather window we had all been waiting for in the last couple of days. Tomorrow would be the long-awaited D-Day!
