We spent a few days in the hostel, waiting for a slight break in the weather, and that day has finally arrived. Tomorrow, we will attempt the much-anticipated “Laguna de los Tres” trek! Wohoo!
Some of the people in the hostel were set to leave at 4 am, aiming to reach the top by sunrise and catch the iconic orange hue as the sun hits the face of the mountain. I felt it was wishful thinking to expect clear skies by sunrise, considering the forecast predicted it would only be clear by midday. However, I didn’t want to risk potentially missing the epic sunrise, so I decided to choose a route that would take me to a halfway viewpoint of Fitzroy. This meant I only had to leave at a more reasonable time, 6 am. A few others were also interested in this idea, so we formed a group of six, leaving at 6.
We woke up and left as planned. It was still pitch dark, and only a few of us had headlights. As expected, it was freezing cold, but the first uphill warmed us up quickly. About an hour into the hike, it started snowing. It was a surreal sensation to be silently hiking in the dark while being snowed on. The snowfall intensified, and soon we found ourselves walking through several inches of snow. As twilight arrived, it revealed a magical snowy winter landscape unlike anything I had seen before.
It was still very overcast as dawn approached so my hopes of catching the infamous sunrise were low. Nevertheless, with a surge of enthusiasm, I pushed ahead leaving the group behind to ensure I would reach the viewpoint in case the clouds magically disappeared within the next 20 or 30 minutes. Upon reaching the viewpoint I found my optimism was misplaced. The conditions were still pretty brutal and there was no sun nor mountain in sight.
I walked back at an almost jogging pace to rejoin the others and inform them of the wasted effort. As it turned out, they didn’t even bother with the viewpoint detour and carried on the original trail. I eventually caught up with them further ahead on the trail. We walked together for about 45 minutes until the conditions started to take its toll on some of the group members. As we approached a shelter at Fitzroy base camp the group decided to take refuge and rest for a while. From the base camp to the top, lies the final and steepest stretch of the hike: a direct 400-meter ascent to our destination. I was still in high spirits and full of energy, so I pushed onward.
It was around 8:30, and as I ascended, I encountered everyone who had started the trek at 4 am making their way down. Defeated and miserable after waiting around in sub-zero temperatures, gusting winds, and no sunlight to warm them up. Even Arielle who was incredibly fanatical about this mountain was making her way down. Nobody caught even a glimpse of Fitzroy, let alone the epic sunrise on its face as it was completely overcast at the summit. However, I remained hopeful and still felt fresh. I had a glimmer of hope that the warmth of daylight would support me while I waited at the top for the clouds and fog to clear.
After a brief but icy ascent, I finally reached the summit. Everyone else had already left, except for two guys who had taken refuge behind a large boulder, seeking shelter from the blizzard-like conditions. I joined them in their secluded spot, and together we had to keep moving and jumping around to maintain warmth. Occasionally, a few other people arrived, but none would stay for more than a few minutes.
The conditions were unbearable without the appropriate clothing. I can honestly say I have never felt this cold in my life. With every passing minute, it felt as though a relentless chisel was mercilessly chipping away at our spirits and morale. The unforgiving cold has long since robbed hands and feet of all sensation. My body was pleading, screaming even, to surrender this relentless struggle.
We endured this for another hour or more. Then all of a sudden, I noticed an increase in brightness from our surroundings. Can that be..? I look up at the sky.. Yes, it is! A glimmer of sunlight piercing through the fog and clouds. Finally some warmth! However, catching some rays came at the cost of exposing ourselves to piercing wind. Though, with some strategic positioning I was able to find a spot behind our boulder with a balanced tradeoff between wind and sun. I was never truly warm, but the threat of frostbite no longer seemed inevitable.
In what seemed like a miraculous change of events, within 15 minutes or so, the wind stopped and the weather changed entirely. The skies cleared significantly, and we could finally see some landscapes around us. Sadly, Fitzroy was still completely hidden.
I am definitely solar powered and had a rejuvenated lease on energy. Alongside my fellow blizzard survivors, we joyfully wandered around, enjoying the freedom of having the entire mountain to ourselves. We explored the surrounding areas and sought out optimal viewpoints to gaze upon the snow-covered landscapes.
Then, in an instant, as our gaze turned toward the cloud-covered peaks, a monumental silhouette emerged through the fog. This majestic figure stood even taller than anything we had witnessed before. It turned out that the initial shape we had been observing was not Fitzroy at all; instead, it was its considerably smaller neighbour. Fitzroy, it seems, was unimaginably more monstrous.
Soon, the clouds cleared, revealing a full view, and I was in awe at the sight. It was absolutely massive. I had never seen a mountain rise so vertically into the air. From where we stood Fitzroy towered another 2000m into the air to a height of 3400m. It was absolutely breathtaking. We celebrated and were all incredibly delighted that we had persevered through hours of very harsh conditions and were rewarded.
Without a doubt, it was the most challenging, epic, and demanding hike I have ever done. It will be a day I will never forget! The rest of the day had me buzzing with excitement and joy. I was practically skipping and singing all the way down.
